The boat races have a deep religious meaning both Buddhist and Animist. But it’s also one of the best natured picnic races I have ever been to.
In the weeks leading up to the races, the teams practice on the Nam Khan (river) and the Mekong. You can hear them chanting in the rhythm of their rowing in the early morning and the evenings.
Practice in the rain
The canoes are big – carrying more than 40 rowers. Each temple has at least one racing canoe. In the quiet of Luang Prabang, the chanting floats for miles up and down the river.
Small crowds gather in the evening in the street overlooking the Nam Khan to watch the rowers practice.
One of my favourite things to do is sit drinking a gin and tonic and watch the river traffic. On the Nam Khan, that’s racing canoes and small fishing canoes. On the Mekong you will see everything from canoes to floating hotels!
Racing on the Mekong
Before the main racing is held in the old city, another meet is held a little south of the centre on the Mekong near the mouth of the river that is the traditional boundary to Luang Prabang. This is the home of one of the Nagas that feature in the mythology around the races.
The crowd getting excited
This race is much less formal, the canoes are smaller and it’s quite a carnival. Not so easy to find. As you head south out of the city, you cross a bridge then immediately turn right and enter a temple which then leads you through the food stalls and down to the Mekong.
It’s worth the trip. You will probably be the only westerner there!
There are also two carnivals. One held on an expanse of land between the main road and Wat That Luang and, on the day of the races, a street fair that takes over the main highway leading into town.
Jumping Castles at the Night Carnival
The night carnival has the biggest array of jumping castles I have ever seen. It also has food and games and bargain shopping for the locals.
The daytime one is also huge and as well as food there are so many shops selling so many goods it shard to remember them all.
We stayed in a hotel on the street above the Nam Khan so we didn’t have far to go and so we could watch the races from our balcony. But not wanting to be left out of the fun, we were able to hire a table at a restaurant looking down on the river just by turning up mid-morning.
Pushing to the finish line on the Nam Khan
For the length of the race, there are restaurants set up on the banks overlooking the river and you can sit at a table, drinking cold beer and ordering food from the many stalls along the route. Both sides of the Nam Khan are crowded with people. The noise is something you have to experience to understand. There’s a race caller on a race wide PA system. Each stall plays its own music and add to that a screaming crowd, and groups of drummers and…well it’s load.
It’s noising, good natured fun – with lots of food and beer.
